Vintage Guitar News and Views
Vintage and collectible guitar sales,Gibson,Fender,Martin,Cunetto,Grammer,Ibanez,Vintage amps and parts,Guitar sales ,guitar trades,consignments available,Greg's guitars.net,The ConGREGation.770-337-9679.~or~gregsguitars1@yahoo.com
Vintage Guitar News and Views
The Vintage Guitar News and Views July Edition
Dependence or
The July edition of” The Vintage Guitar News and Views.”
In considering this months installment of The Vintage Guitar News and Views I found myself thinking not only our freedoms we enjoy, but also the pursuit of ambitions, dreams and the protection of our country and the sacrifices that have been made by the many that have came before us and those that are serving now, not only in the service to our country through the military but also serving our country through the shining example(s) of the dedication that they brought to the business world and in particular to the industry of guitars and what (if anything) could be learned through the exploration of the two icons in our industry (I think so at least ).
The two men I have chosen for my own guitar hall of fame are who I consider (and many will agree) the two most important men in the history of guitar manufacturing. Leaders, visionaries and capable men who through trial and error, listening as well as leading ,have brought us(guitar nuts) the items we consider the best of the best ,in guitar enthusiasts,players and collectors circles.
These two men not only developed skills in electronics and business at an early age . in the development of their products they listened to their clients, they participated in the development process and most of all these two men set the tone of their respective companies with their caring demeanor, thus insuring great products for musicians around the world then and in retrospect for us now.
Not only were they educated they were also dedicated. They were dedicated to their jobs and the jobs and lives of their subordinates, this last observation is what I feel is and shall always be the building block or stumbling block of both any company in the past, present and future.
So let us take a brief look at the two“founding fathers” of our guitar nation and see what I mean, Ted McCarty ofGibson guitars and Leo Fender from Fender Musical Instruments.
The similarities are spooky to say the least,Mr. McCarty at a young age had an aptitude for business, and in elementary school he started a school newspaper was very athletic and showed an interest in radio, not just for the entertainment they provided but also the inner workings. He built many a radio and experimented with the internal workings from kits. Excelling academically, athletically and socially off to college he went. Mr. Fender born to a farming family showed interest in the tools of the trade rather than the trade itself also interested in electronics and inner workings of things he tore apart radios to see how they worked, interesting enough he also built an acoustic guitar at the age of only 16.After an unassuming early education Leo went on to Jr. college where he worked as a bookkeeper and then became an accountant , learning the practices of making a business work through checks and balances ( no pun intended ). Still the everdying tinkerer he was always drawn to his love of electronics and working on musical instruments. Catching the notice of a local bandleader for his ability to work on P.A. systems he was given a chance to build several systems under contract and this led the way for what we know today as the great Fender Musical Instrument company.
Mr. McCarty after elementary education went onto the
Both Leo and Ted learned the business of business from the bottom up, inside out and most importantly learned that their product(s) were only as good as the people that made them and that the people that made their products were only as good as the leadership at the helm of operations. This aspect I feel was fundamentally lost after they both relinquished their leadership to others and most people in the guitar world feel that the golden age of guitars(the first anyways) was over by the time both of these men left the companies that they had either run or founded. These men put their passion of what they enjoyed doing combined with the passion for guitars out in front of everyone to see, they purposely made and improved their products for the end consumers .Sure they wanted to turn a profit and succeed but they also believed in what they were doing. I wish that companies today would take the lessons these two gentlemen taught us both in the desire to produce superior products and act independently of market conditions instead of depending on past successes to invigorate sales. Also in the way these two men listened to not only their clients but also their genuine care for the people they employed . Enabled them to create the guitars that we today so covet. Both these men although taking different paths, followed their desires and interests that they cradled at an early age to build what most consider the most successful instrument(s) we think we have ever seen.
So many of us as parents seem to try to mold our children instead of letting them mold themselves (I ‘m guilty). Granted they(our children) can not run amok , but there may be something to the innate abilities that one is born with that can lead us all to success in one form oranother. After all look at the two iconic guitars ever produced by the two men that independently followed the path that led them to their place in history.Well this like always its just my news and views, so until next month, may all your friends stay true all your days be memorable and all your riffs be killer,Greg at Gregs Guitars.
The Vintage Guitar News and Views, June Edition
Amps and the general scheme of things. 
I get questions concerning amps all the time, some easy to answer and some a little harder to answer. Here in this issue of The Vintage Guitar News and Views I will lay some very basic groundwork for you to digest concerning guitar amplifiers. Class A amps have low distortion and low power output with full power always flowing to the amps tubes, these style amps consume a lot of power and have great sustain, think of the Vox AC 30 as one example.
Class B style amps turn Ac power into current and have more distortion are more efficient energy wise. Class A/B ,which most Fender amps are and most B class amps give the best in design of both sustain and breakup or distortion ( natural) , they are cheaper to build, reliable and easy to work on.
The output stages being one .the push pull style can be summed up as to whatever one tube is doing in the circuit the next tube is doing the opposite in operation ,hence the name "push pull " Capacitors or "caps" as they are commonly called store a charge and block out or taper low frequencies and allow higher frequencies to pass through the circuit, There are several different caps available in amps , the "vintage " paper caps, then the mylar caps,electrolytic caps,and the most common used today the mylar caps. They all do the same job in the circuit but some people prefer one type over another.
Hard wired or point to point amps are generally more expensive although almost all "vintage " amps are wired this way. this is where each component is linked to the next inline via the solder joint and is not attached to a circuit board of any kind. The circuit board in most amps built since the 1960's is usually made of a fiber material and most components are attached to the board .
Speakers have changed over the years also, the best by general consensus are the alnico magnet type of speakers, but in the mid 1960's the ingredients used to produce these magnets became to expensive and newer magnet material(s) were developed with a combination of oxide(s) and ceramic (s), these are pretty much the norm today.I like the blue back celestions myself.
Then there were the manufacturing companies that produced amplifiers( to many to list) but makers such as Oahu,Gibson,Supro,Danelectro,Rickenbacher(Rickenbacker today ) ,Fender, Magnatone, Alamo,Vox ,Marshall,Gretsch,Kelly,Music man,Mesa, and hundreds of other companies. My personal amps consist of my Magnatone M-10,Gibson GA-5, Fender Vibroverb, 1960 Concert amp, and my Fender Bassman, all different but all the same , I still search for really cool amps to offer my clients as well as myself.
As far as tubes go, some work better than others and some work better in different spots along the amp circuitry, you have to experiment and mix and match until you get the desired effect out of tube placement and that can and is a whole article within itself.So until next month, may all your days be memorable, may all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer, Greg at Greg's Guitars.
I get questions concerning amps all the time, some easy to answer and some a little harder to answer. Here in this issue of The Vintage Guitar News and Views I will lay some very basic groundwork for you to digest concerning guitar amplifiers. Class A amps have low distortion and low power output with full power always flowing to the amps tubes, these style amps consume a lot of power and have great sustain, think of the Vox AC 30 as one example.
Class B style amps turn Ac power into current and have more distortion are more efficient energy wise. Class A/B ,which most Fender amps are and most B class amps give the best in design of both sustain and breakup or distortion ( natural) , they are cheaper to build, reliable and easy to work on.
The output stages being one .the push pull style can be summed up as to whatever one tube is doing in the circuit the next tube is doing the opposite in operation ,hence the name "push pull " Capacitors or "caps" as they are commonly called store a charge and block out or taper low frequencies and allow higher frequencies to pass through the circuit, There are several different caps available in amps , the "vintage " paper caps, then the mylar caps,electrolytic caps,and the most common used today the mylar caps. They all do the same job in the circuit but some people prefer one type over another.
Hard wired or point to point amps are generally more expensive although almost all "vintage " amps are wired this way. this is where each component is linked to the next inline via the solder joint and is not attached to a circuit board of any kind. The circuit board in most amps built since the 1960's is usually made of a fiber material and most components are attached to the board .
Speakers have changed over the years also, the best by general consensus are the alnico magnet type of speakers, but in the mid 1960's the ingredients used to produce these magnets became to expensive and newer magnet material(s) were developed with a combination of oxide(s) and ceramic (s), these are pretty much the norm today.I like the blue back celestions myself.
Then there were the manufacturing companies that produced amplifiers( to many to list) but makers such as Oahu,Gibson,Supro,Danelectro,Rickenbacher(Rickenbacker today ) ,Fender, Magnatone, Alamo,Vox ,Marshall,Gretsch,Kelly,Music man,Mesa, and hundreds of other companies. My personal amps consist of my Magnatone M-10,Gibson GA-5, Fender Vibroverb, 1960 Concert amp, and my Fender Bassman, all different but all the same , I still search for really cool amps to offer my clients as well as myself.
As far as tubes go, some work better than others and some work better in different spots along the amp circuitry, you have to experiment and mix and match until you get the desired effect out of tube placement and that can and is a whole article within itself.So until next month, may all your days be memorable, may all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer, Greg at Greg's Guitars.
The May Edition of The Vintage Guitar News and Views
Arguably the point has been made that the best acoustic guitars were constructed in a short 9 to 12 year span and that span in time was before most off us were born. Now I am not going to argue that particular point in this issue of The Vintage Guitar News and Views, but rather inject some food for thought. I as much as any player or guitar collector love those old guitars made in the late 1930's through the late 1940's and like any guitar made today ,some were good some were bad and some where tonally ugly. True, acoustic guitars made in this era will probably always be highly sought after by players and collectors alike to those that can afford them but I tend to disagree ( surprised ? ) that these are the best of the best in acoustic guitar production. I personally have heard and own many acoustic guitars that sound amazing and are extremely well built. Some of these guitars were constructed by now defunct and out of business companies due to financial or natural disasters. The R.G. and G. company out of Nashville Tennessee is one such guitar company that made some fine guitars ,they were highly regarded and played by anyone who was someone in Nashville in the 1960's and early 1970's while these guitars were still in production. Unfortunately the company founded by Billy Grammer ( The Grammer Guitar) was consumed by fire and never rose from the ashes to build another guitar .Takamine guitars started flexing there muscle in the 1980's and many big named stars to this day play those and more recently produced Takamine guitars. As newer innovations and technology crept into the guitar manufacturing process a more conforming and standard product started arriving for the consumer, now granted none of these guitars may never achieve the cult like status and glory that the older acoustic guitars have acquired, but you never know. I also believe that the Vintage acoustic guitar market is ready for an upswing in pricing. They have played second fiddle to the electric slab of wood long enough in my opinion and I predict that the electric guitar market will soften and stabilize while we acoustic guitar collectors will see a rise in value. All this almost brings me to my point, that most acoustic guitars that have been built since the 1930 era are all bench marked against the big two guitar makers of the time, i.e. It sounds like a "Gibson" or is made like a "Martin" and so on. Much as most amps built are compared to either Fender or Marshall as if these companies are the only companies to ever build a good product.If this were the truth then why are their so many different choices even within the major companies themselves? The answer to me is simple, with such a wide tonal palette to enjoy and such a varied playing spectrum in which we can participate then choice is paramount to the player to the artist and to the collector. Granted some guitars will be worth more than others because of the perceived magical era in which they were produced, but what is judges as good or not good collectible or not narrowed down to just a handful of guitars made in a certain time frame is rather shallow and narrow minded, but this as always is just my news and view. So until next month , may all your days be re memorable may all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer, Greg.
The Vintage Guitar News and Views April Edition,"Music the Universal Language"
As I looked at my cards the dealer had given me contemplating my odds. The gentleman seated to my left gives me a shrug. Seeing my cards he knows my chances as well as I do.I fold mu hand, that is the beauty of 3 card poker. Each player is only playing against the house or dealers cards and it is not uncommon to show your hand to fellow players. The local player to my left strikes up a conversation noting I was wearing a shirt with a guitar on it."Do you play the guitar?' he asks. I answer that I play as well as sell guitars,his eyes register that universal acknowledgment among all guitarists. He then asks "what type of guitars do you sell ?" So I produce a small booklet of some of my inventory that I carry with me for just this very reason. He flips through the pages and stops at certain guitars and asks various questions, which I answer to the best of my ability. He too has the same love and admiration for these fine stringed instruments, a fellow guitar lover. He begins telling me of his guitars which draws the attention of another fellow card player at the next table. We all sit out the next few hands of three card poker at the nearby bar discussing various pieces of equipment. Some we own, some we would like to own, and some we can only imagine owning one day.
After an hour of so of conversation our group has grown to over seven fellow guitar enthusiasts, all local residents, each taking turns looking at my booklet and each fielding their own unique questions. All of us smile and nod our satisfaction. I listen with earnest as they tell me of their guitars, or "girls" as I call them and they are all amused at the phrase I have taught them to call their guitars. Most of their guitars are the classical style, made with local exotic tone woods, which leads to the discussion of the exotic wood shortages faced by most guitar builders today. We are joined by several Americans who have overheard us talking about our guitars and want to share stories about their own guitars,( we are so one track minded) and as the evening progresses we exchange addresses and email information and I give everyone a business card for Greg's guitars, they all accept and as we file away ,each of us feeling a little better, a little luckier, we settle back into our tables to once again play cards. I can not help but smile , even though three languages were spoken over the course of our guitar conversations we all understood each other, and who says that mathematics is the only true universal language? So may all your days be memorable, all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer , until next month this is Greg at Greg's guitars.
After an hour of so of conversation our group has grown to over seven fellow guitar enthusiasts, all local residents, each taking turns looking at my booklet and each fielding their own unique questions. All of us smile and nod our satisfaction. I listen with earnest as they tell me of their guitars, or "girls" as I call them and they are all amused at the phrase I have taught them to call their guitars. Most of their guitars are the classical style, made with local exotic tone woods, which leads to the discussion of the exotic wood shortages faced by most guitar builders today. We are joined by several Americans who have overheard us talking about our guitars and want to share stories about their own guitars,( we are so one track minded) and as the evening progresses we exchange addresses and email information and I give everyone a business card for Greg's guitars, they all accept and as we file away ,each of us feeling a little better, a little luckier, we settle back into our tables to once again play cards. I can not help but smile , even though three languages were spoken over the course of our guitar conversations we all understood each other, and who says that mathematics is the only true universal language? So may all your days be memorable, all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer , until next month this is Greg at Greg's guitars.
The Vintage Guitar News and Views,March Edition.
vintage electric guitar link
There have been many changes in the acoustic guitar industry through the years,some good,some not so good and some were really bad. For the most part the old adage that "necessity breeds invention" holds true. Take the use of Mahogany wood for example. Mahogany wood was once viewed as inferior tone wood to be used on acoustic guitars, but was accepted and used as a replacement for Brazilian rosewood at times.One large guitar maker even used birch wood ( although called maple) for the sides and back of some of its guitars. But, back to mahogany. This wood was found to have properties to better the construction of guitar necks , because at one point in history acoustic guitar necks were made of cedar, spliced together. So instead of several pieces of cedar to make a guitar neck one piece of mahogany wood because of its strength could now be used and made it possible to construct the neck and peg head out of one piece. Mahogany also gained acceptance for the back and sides of acoustic guitars.
Another replacement or change that happened was the replacement of Ivory ,also a widely used material for bridge pins, binding,bridge saddles, and nuts,decoration and sometimes complete custom fret boards. this was slowly replaced with a celluloid material commonly referred to today as " ivoryoid".
With the advent of longer fret boards to facilitate players needs and demands and with the wider usage of steel strings Acoustic guitar builders slowly adapted to the placement of interior neck reinforcement. This helped keep the neck straight due to the tension created by steel strings. Using everything from ebony to steel and finally the adjustable "truss rod " we know as a standard feature on guitars today. Which are still being refined on modern guitars.
The change from "gut" or "Nylon" strings to steel strings also created other changes in acoustic guitars. The greater tension placed on the guitar tops,bracing and bridges on guitars of "oldie" required makers to change or alter the interior body bracing for the acoustic guitars tops and also change the size " footprint" that the bridge made on the top of the guitar as well, all leading to a better built and sometimes better sounding acoustic guitar.
During the late 1960's and early 1970's the tone wood from Brazil became harder to get and after it came under government control it became quite expensive also. Acoustic guitar makers scrambled to get as much as they could and started to utilize the remaining Brazilian rosewood that they already had. Such is the case for the emergence of smaller pieces being used to create the backs of some acoustic guitars( 3 pieces instead of 2 larger pieces), and a shift to Indian rosewood as well.
As in regards to experiments with tone woods, builders used and are still doing so,more laminates,exotic woods and indigenous wood species in an attempt to replace the lost Brazilian rosewoods,But hey that is another edition of the vintage guitar news and views altogether. This article is not meant to be all inclusive or the definite last word on the subjects covered,but rather an informative and entertain look at the different aspects of guitars and the vintage guitar market as I see it and as usual this is just my guitar news and views. So until next month may all your days be memorable,all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer,Greg at gregsguitars.net
The February Edition of Vintage Guitar News and Views
February's Vintage Guitar News and Views.
Heart to Heart with your guitars.
guitar links
How much is my guitar worth? Seems like a pretty cut and dry question doesn't it ? Well a lot of factors can contribute to the final answer. How much is it in relationship to the present market is one answer. How much do you expect to get for her is another. How much will a buyer ( dealer) pay is quite another answer. Is she straight and clean? Have any parts ever been changed? Is it refinished? If parts were changed do you still have the original parts? Were the changes done professionally? Hang tags? receipts? case candy? All these items come into play with that one simple question.
Can you and will you send pictures of all the appropriate parts and different views if needed? This may require you to take apart to some extent your guitar , are you comfortable doing this? Sure you can look at one of the auction sites to get a general feel for prices ,and if that is all you want then that would be my suggestion. If you do rely on one of these( shudder ) sites for this information then why even bother calling for quotes? Are you selling your guitar or amp or do you want to know if you paid a fair price for it when you made the purchase?
If you are selling the item then know that most purveyors of fine fretted instruments will not nor can not pay top dollar for your item. Certain overhead has to be met to remain in the arena here ,so please do not take offense if you are offered less than you saw on that auction site( which we tend to completely ignore).Now as far as the condition is concerned,pictured are nice but never tell the whole story, any changes,let me repeat myself, any changes whatsoever will impact the price of an instrument even if these changes made the guitar or bass or amp a better piece of equipment,especially in the collectors circles.
Speaking of circles, there are some basic price structure circles to know about.#1- collectors quality,only the best examples of the most desirable pieces fit into this category and prices are on the steeper side. #2- collector / players grade, The item still retains most of the original parts.#3- players grade ,most parts still there but may have wear or finish issues.#4-players,Some parts changed ,and finish redone or lots of wear.#5- beaters , almost none of the guitar or amp is as it left the factory when new .and within these groups are even further sub groups all with pricing criteria and fluctuations.
So if you call someone for that elusive but attainable answer to you question, know that you should know most of the answers to the questions that you will be asked also. Have detailed pictures ready to send via email and be honest, Let the guy on the other end of the phone know why you are interested in knowing the price, let us know if your selling,shopping, or need an evaluation rather than a quick answer. If you do want an in depth evaluation you may be asked to pay for one, Yes time is money and nothing worthwhile is ever free, so be prepared to pony up, so to speak.I Recommend that you purchase a price guide on line or at a book store , these are helpful but not the rule in establishing a fundamental price , but again if your guitar is worth 1000.00 dollars , no one will pay that ,because they in turn have to sell it to make a profit ,so they can not pay what they have to sell for.Like everything , their are fluctuations,standards and exceptions to every rule. Like always this is just my news and view. I hope it has been somewhat helpful.So until next month, may all your days be memorable, all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer, Greg at Greg's guitar.
Heart to Heart with your guitars.
guitar links
How much is my guitar worth? Seems like a pretty cut and dry question doesn't it ? Well a lot of factors can contribute to the final answer. How much is it in relationship to the present market is one answer. How much do you expect to get for her is another. How much will a buyer ( dealer) pay is quite another answer. Is she straight and clean? Have any parts ever been changed? Is it refinished? If parts were changed do you still have the original parts? Were the changes done professionally? Hang tags? receipts? case candy? All these items come into play with that one simple question.
Can you and will you send pictures of all the appropriate parts and different views if needed? This may require you to take apart to some extent your guitar , are you comfortable doing this? Sure you can look at one of the auction sites to get a general feel for prices ,and if that is all you want then that would be my suggestion. If you do rely on one of these( shudder ) sites for this information then why even bother calling for quotes? Are you selling your guitar or amp or do you want to know if you paid a fair price for it when you made the purchase?
If you are selling the item then know that most purveyors of fine fretted instruments will not nor can not pay top dollar for your item. Certain overhead has to be met to remain in the arena here ,so please do not take offense if you are offered less than you saw on that auction site( which we tend to completely ignore).Now as far as the condition is concerned,pictured are nice but never tell the whole story, any changes,let me repeat myself, any changes whatsoever will impact the price of an instrument even if these changes made the guitar or bass or amp a better piece of equipment,especially in the collectors circles.
Speaking of circles, there are some basic price structure circles to know about.#1- collectors quality,only the best examples of the most desirable pieces fit into this category and prices are on the steeper side. #2- collector / players grade, The item still retains most of the original parts.#3- players grade ,most parts still there but may have wear or finish issues.#4-players,Some parts changed ,and finish redone or lots of wear.#5- beaters , almost none of the guitar or amp is as it left the factory when new .and within these groups are even further sub groups all with pricing criteria and fluctuations.
So if you call someone for that elusive but attainable answer to you question, know that you should know most of the answers to the questions that you will be asked also. Have detailed pictures ready to send via email and be honest, Let the guy on the other end of the phone know why you are interested in knowing the price, let us know if your selling,shopping, or need an evaluation rather than a quick answer. If you do want an in depth evaluation you may be asked to pay for one, Yes time is money and nothing worthwhile is ever free, so be prepared to pony up, so to speak.I Recommend that you purchase a price guide on line or at a book store , these are helpful but not the rule in establishing a fundamental price , but again if your guitar is worth 1000.00 dollars , no one will pay that ,because they in turn have to sell it to make a profit ,so they can not pay what they have to sell for.Like everything , their are fluctuations,standards and exceptions to every rule. Like always this is just my news and view. I hope it has been somewhat helpful.So until next month, may all your days be memorable, all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer, Greg at Greg's guitar.
January Edition of The Vintage Guitar News and Views.
vintage guitars
Music Memorabilia
The January Edition of Vintage Guitar News and Views
" Terms of Endearment"
From time to time in explaining the condition ,shape or originality of a vintage guitar
or piece of vintage gear,I get the response " what does that mean?"
Nothing wrong with that question , not everyone is savvy to all the
terms used in the vintage guitar arena,so here are a few terms of
endearment that you should get to know.
-Clean:Where as the finish is in great shape from any major nicks or mars ,rips or tears.
-Straight:All the solder joints,tuners,keys,knobs,switches,frets,finish,color,and pickups as well as the pick guard are all original and intact,usually with the original case or cover if it is an amp.
-O.H.S.C.: Original Hard Shell Case as came from the factory.
-Period correct: The guitar or amp is original to a certain year or model and some parts may have been replaced with correct parts from another guitar or amp.
-Period correct case:May not be the original case as from the factory but is a correct case for the vintage piece.
-Refret or refretted: the original frets have been replaced with either period correct frets or frets that the previous owner may have wanted as far as size is concerned,if they were same sized frets as the original they would be ? period correct, see how it all comes full circle?
-Refin or refinished:This refers to the original finish having been at some point either repainted or recovered due to fade or a particular owners preference,i.e. a sunburst stripped off a guitar and a Fiesta red finish reapplied .
-Players grade or players guitar: Usually a vintage guitar ,but not necessarily, that has had some changes that may or may not be period correct it still retains some respectability of originality to it but not everything is original.The body and neck may be all that's left of the original guitar or bass and everything else has through the years been replaced for one reason or another, not a bad thing ,old wood is where the tone is, but not as desirable as an all original straight piece of vintage gear.
-Route or routes: not something everyone wants to hear, but during the life of a vintage guitar somewhere someone has replaced a single coil pickup with a humbucker and had to enlarge the cavity that is in the body to accommodate the larger pickup(s),This does effect the price of a vintage guitar ,but you have to be the judge on how bad you want it, and if the route is a professional or hack job and if the route has or has not been professionally refilled and rerouted back to original specs.
-Second or Factory second:For a while some guitar manufactures let people buy guitars that were deemed as inferior at some phase of the construction process, most blemishes or rejections are impossible to find some are obvious, the Factory would stamp a 2 somewhere ,usually under the serial number or on the back of the headstock to indicate this, according to some experts this does not really effect the price when dealing with highly desirable vintage gear as long as it is straight ,clean and original.
Tweed: The name given by collectors to the striped yellow and brown covering on amps and cases usually from the 40's and 50's.
-Tolex The rouged brown,white,black covering on most amps and cases since the early 60's ,other colors do exist.
-Pups: The pickups in a guitar or bass guitar.
-Pots: The word usually said in place of the potometers, the controls for volume,tone,gain,bass,treble,etc.etc.
-Caps: Again a word used in place of capacitor ,these are the small electronic devices usually wired into a circuit to either combine some aspects of the build ,since you can not really wire each and every piece internally together ,some caps also bleed of unwanted noises, or treble or bass frequency's as determined by the builder, it is not uncommon to see the caps replaced in a amp.as these do deteriorate over time.
-Buckle rash: Usually the backside of the guitars body is covered in small or large areas of finish deterioration ,mars,scratches and finish removal due to usage.
-Ding: a small impression (sometimes not so small) that is pressed into the wood and finish but that does not go through to or expose any of the body wood or break the finish.
-Dink: An impression or mar that shows wood through the finish.
-Swirls: Usually light circular scratches that occur on the finish due to polishing the guitar over the period of it's life.
-Checking:Where the clear coat finish has actual lines throughout the surface of the guitar or bass,not a bad thing, not something that goes into the wood itself ,it is an aging and temperature change condition that almost all guitars will have on them at some point in their life.
-Neckset: Almost all acoustic guitars will at some point in their lifespan need to have the neck removed and a portion of wood shaved off to correct for time and pressure taking its toll on the wood itself and properly realign the neck angle with the body for continued playability.If done properly it is usually of no concern if not,it is usually a noticeable ugly mess and may not be able to be corrected.
-Recone: When an original speaker coil drops or wears out the speaker is usually reconed, this does hamper the original tone as to how the amp will sound , usually they never sound as good as the original, but things happen and with amps it really is no big deal,it just depends on how original an amp you desire.
Now these are just a few of the terms most widely used or that you may hear when a item is being described to you or on a website,So now that you understand some of them you will be better able to make a determination of the price that is being asked,always ask for clear precise pictures or clarification of anything that may cause concern and remember that some changes or replacement parts are not a bad thing , some things just wear out. As always this is just my news and views, So until next month ,may all your days be memorable,all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer,Greg at Greg's guitars. days be memorable,all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer,Greg at Greg's guitars.
Music Memorabilia
The January Edition of Vintage Guitar News and Views
" Terms of Endearment"
From time to time in explaining the condition ,shape or originality of a vintage guitar
-Clean:Where as the finish is in great shape from any major nicks or mars ,rips or tears.
-Straight:All the solder joints,tuners,keys,knobs,switches,frets,finish,color,and pickups as well as the pick guard are all original and intact,usually with the original case or cover if it is an amp.
-O.H.S.C.: Original Hard Shell Case as came from the factory.
-Period correct: The guitar or amp is original to a certain year or model and some parts may have been replaced with correct parts from another guitar or amp.
-Period correct case:May not be the original case as from the factory but is a correct case for the vintage piece.
-Refret or refretted: the original frets have been replaced with either period correct frets or frets that the previous owner may have wanted as far as size is concerned,if they were same sized frets as the original they would be ? period correct, see how it all comes full circle?
-Refin or refinished:This refers to the original finish having been at some point either repainted or recovered due to fade or a particular owners preference,i.e. a sunburst stripped off a guitar and a Fiesta red finish reapplied .
-Players grade or players guitar: Usually a vintage guitar ,but not necessarily, that has had some changes that may or may not be period correct it still retains some respectability of originality to it but not everything is original.The body and neck may be all that's left of the original guitar or bass and everything else has through the years been replaced for one reason or another, not a bad thing ,old wood is where the tone is, but not as desirable as an all original straight piece of vintage gear.
-Route or routes: not something everyone wants to hear, but during the life of a vintage guitar somewhere someone has replaced a single coil pickup with a humbucker and had to enlarge the cavity that is in the body to accommodate the larger pickup(s),This does effect the price of a vintage guitar ,but you have to be the judge on how bad you want it, and if the route is a professional or hack job and if the route has or has not been professionally refilled and rerouted back to original specs.
-Second or Factory second:For a while some guitar manufactures let people buy guitars that were deemed as inferior at some phase of the construction process, most blemishes or rejections are impossible to find some are obvious, the Factory would stamp a 2 somewhere ,usually under the serial number or on the back of the headstock to indicate this, according to some experts this does not really effect the price when dealing with highly desirable vintage gear as long as it is straight ,clean and original.
Tweed: The name given by collectors to the striped yellow and brown covering on amps and cases usually from the 40's and 50's.
-Tolex The rouged brown,white,black covering on most amps and cases since the early 60's ,other colors do exist.
-Pups: The pickups in a guitar or bass guitar.
-Pots: The word usually said in place of the potometers, the controls for volume,tone,gain,bass,treble,etc.etc.
-Caps: Again a word used in place of capacitor ,these are the small electronic devices usually wired into a circuit to either combine some aspects of the build ,since you can not really wire each and every piece internally together ,some caps also bleed of unwanted noises, or treble or bass frequency's as determined by the builder, it is not uncommon to see the caps replaced in a amp.as these do deteriorate over time.
-Buckle rash: Usually the backside of the guitars body is covered in small or large areas of finish deterioration ,mars,scratches and finish removal due to usage.
-Ding: a small impression (sometimes not so small) that is pressed into the wood and finish but that does not go through to or expose any of the body wood or break the finish.
-Dink: An impression or mar that shows wood through the finish.
-Swirls: Usually light circular scratches that occur on the finish due to polishing the guitar over the period of it's life.
-Checking:Where the clear coat finish has actual lines throughout the surface of the guitar or bass,not a bad thing, not something that goes into the wood itself ,it is an aging and temperature change condition that almost all guitars will have on them at some point in their life.
-Neckset: Almost all acoustic guitars will at some point in their lifespan need to have the neck removed and a portion of wood shaved off to correct for time and pressure taking its toll on the wood itself and properly realign the neck angle with the body for continued playability.If done properly it is usually of no concern if not,it is usually a noticeable ugly mess and may not be able to be corrected.
-Recone: When an original speaker coil drops or wears out the speaker is usually reconed, this does hamper the original tone as to how the amp will sound , usually they never sound as good as the original, but things happen and with amps it really is no big deal,it just depends on how original an amp you desire.
Now these are just a few of the terms most widely used or that you may hear when a item is being described to you or on a website,So now that you understand some of them you will be better able to make a determination of the price that is being asked,always ask for clear precise pictures or clarification of anything that may cause concern and remember that some changes or replacement parts are not a bad thing , some things just wear out. As always this is just my news and views, So until next month ,may all your days be memorable,all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer,Greg at Greg's guitars. days be memorable,all your friends stay true and all your riffs be killer,Greg at Greg's guitars.
Vintage Guitar News and Views the December Edition.
vintage guitars Vintage acoustic guitars bass guitars links
For this months edition of Vintage guitar news and views we turn our attention to the maintenance and upkeep of our guitars ,both our playing guitars and our investments , which in my opinion they all are . Winter time is upon us ,dreary days and cloudy skies ,all but most of our outdoor jam sessions have ceased to exist, the perfect time for tuning up our guitars as well as general upkeep and cleaning, the following is standard but sometime items we either forget or put off to do, so get a space cleared out and enjoy a day with all your guitars, yule be glad ya did.The first thing I do is oil all my latches on my guitar cases and inspect the handles for signs of weakness or need of repair, I take my guitar out and place her on a nice padded work station while I clean the outside of each case with a 20 per cent mix of warm water and mean green cleaner , I use a stiff brush and dip it into my cleaner and give the outside of my cases a good cleaning , followed by a good wipe dry with a clean towel. Now while I sit my case open to dry either in my heated guitar room or place them in the sun if it shining to air dry while I move on to my guitars.
I loosen and remove the strings from my personnel players guitars and usually have no string on my guitars I offer to clients until I ship them. I inspect the frets and dress them as needed, as well as polish my frets. I clean and lubricate the Brazilian rosewood as well as other rosewood fretboards using a damp lint free cloth and buff the dry with another lntfree cloth.I will then follow with a small amount of unboiled linseed oil to lubricate my fretboard or if you prefer some other oil , then feel free to use that, I just like the linseed oil myself. I allow a little time for this to dry before I buff the fretboard dry being sure not to leave any oil or residue on my fret boards. This step does not need to be taken with maple fret boards as that are usually sealed .
Next I remove the truss rod cover if applicable and drop a little 3 in 1 oil on the threads of the rod and wipe up any excess, I then check the neck for any adjustments I may want to make and restring my guitars to tune.
As for the electronics I will add a lubricant pot cleaner to the inside of each pot very sparingly as well as the selector switch insuring to turn them back and forth to spread the cleaner around and again wipe up any excess that may be there. I then button them back up and go onto general body cleaning and polishing.
For this step I use a silicon free cleaner formulated for guitars ,available at places like Stew-mac and other websites that specialize in guitar parts and luther supplies. gently wiping the cleaners off I then follow up with swirl and scratch remover , followed by a good silicon free guitar wax , I buff to a good gloss the entire guitar as well as the back of the necks , followed by a product such as fast fret on the strings .
I then go back to the case and either use a shop vac or a carpet cleaner and follow with a shop vac to clean the interiors of my cases. Insuring that the case interior is completely dry I detune and place my electric guitar back inside, I should note that I do each step on each electric guitar or bass guitar before moving to the next step ,that way I do not have to be going back and forth through each step ,but rather have a assembly line system in which each guitar or bass gets the same treatment before moving on.
This is pretty much the same steps I do for my acoustic guitars as well, with the addition to checking the tops ,bottoms and sides for any evidence of lack of humidity , I will place a homemade humidity device in each acoustic at the beginning of the heating season and recheck every 2 or so months until the weather permits I no longer have to use the heater ,Heaters rob moisture out of our acoustic guitars and can cause significant damage if left unchecked for to long a period. My humidifier is basically a household sponge that I have soaked and wrung out all the excess water that it absorbed, place it in a small baggie that I have perforated and place that inside a larger baggie that is perforated also, drape it between the strings and let it suspend inside the sound hole of my acoustic guitar. It works great and costs a lot less than store bought humidifiers.
Now as for amps, I variac them up every now and then to keep them loose and in working order, I keep them covered and condition the outside tolex with your basic armor all, I might add that I do not hurry in any of these steps, I look forward to spending the quality time with my girls and they to benefit from the time well spent. I hope the holidays are enjoyed by all and as us all this is just my news and views ,so until next month may all your days be memorable, may all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer , Greg.
Keeping your guitars clean,yule be glad you did.
For this months edition of Vintage guitar news and views we turn our attention to the maintenance and upkeep of our guitars ,both our playing guitars and our investments , which in my opinion they all are . Winter time is upon us ,dreary days and cloudy skies ,all but most of our outdoor jam sessions have ceased to exist, the perfect time for tuning up our guitars as well as general upkeep and cleaning, the following is standard but sometime items we either forget or put off to do, so get a space cleared out and enjoy a day with all your guitars, yule be glad ya did.The first thing I do is oil all my latches on my guitar cases and inspect the handles for signs of weakness or need of repair, I take my guitar out and place her on a nice padded work station while I clean the outside of each case with a 20 per cent mix of warm water and mean green cleaner , I use a stiff brush and dip it into my cleaner and give the outside of my cases a good cleaning , followed by a good wipe dry with a clean towel. Now while I sit my case open to dry either in my heated guitar room or place them in the sun if it shining to air dry while I move on to my guitars.
I loosen and remove the strings from my personnel players guitars and usually have no string on my guitars I offer to clients until I ship them. I inspect the frets and dress them as needed, as well as polish my frets. I clean and lubricate the Brazilian rosewood as well as other rosewood fretboards using a damp lint free cloth and buff the dry with another lntfree cloth.I will then follow with a small amount of unboiled linseed oil to lubricate my fretboard or if you prefer some other oil , then feel free to use that, I just like the linseed oil myself. I allow a little time for this to dry before I buff the fretboard dry being sure not to leave any oil or residue on my fret boards. This step does not need to be taken with maple fret boards as that are usually sealed .
Next I remove the truss rod cover if applicable and drop a little 3 in 1 oil on the threads of the rod and wipe up any excess, I then check the neck for any adjustments I may want to make and restring my guitars to tune.
As for the electronics I will add a lubricant pot cleaner to the inside of each pot very sparingly as well as the selector switch insuring to turn them back and forth to spread the cleaner around and again wipe up any excess that may be there. I then button them back up and go onto general body cleaning and polishing.
For this step I use a silicon free cleaner formulated for guitars ,available at places like Stew-mac and other websites that specialize in guitar parts and luther supplies. gently wiping the cleaners off I then follow up with swirl and scratch remover , followed by a good silicon free guitar wax , I buff to a good gloss the entire guitar as well as the back of the necks , followed by a product such as fast fret on the strings .
I then go back to the case and either use a shop vac or a carpet cleaner and follow with a shop vac to clean the interiors of my cases. Insuring that the case interior is completely dry I detune and place my electric guitar back inside, I should note that I do each step on each electric guitar or bass guitar before moving to the next step ,that way I do not have to be going back and forth through each step ,but rather have a assembly line system in which each guitar or bass gets the same treatment before moving on.
This is pretty much the same steps I do for my acoustic guitars as well, with the addition to checking the tops ,bottoms and sides for any evidence of lack of humidity , I will place a homemade humidity device in each acoustic at the beginning of the heating season and recheck every 2 or so months until the weather permits I no longer have to use the heater ,Heaters rob moisture out of our acoustic guitars and can cause significant damage if left unchecked for to long a period. My humidifier is basically a household sponge that I have soaked and wrung out all the excess water that it absorbed, place it in a small baggie that I have perforated and place that inside a larger baggie that is perforated also, drape it between the strings and let it suspend inside the sound hole of my acoustic guitar. It works great and costs a lot less than store bought humidifiers.
Now as for amps, I variac them up every now and then to keep them loose and in working order, I keep them covered and condition the outside tolex with your basic armor all, I might add that I do not hurry in any of these steps, I look forward to spending the quality time with my girls and they to benefit from the time well spent. I hope the holidays are enjoyed by all and as us all this is just my news and views ,so until next month may all your days be memorable, may all your friends stay true and may all your riffs be killer , Greg.
November Edition of Vintage Guitar News and Views.
Giving thanks for groovy guitars
This article explores Vintage Ibanez guitars,Well one in particular anyway and what she boasts as far as appointments and playability ,plus a little interesting vintage guitar history. Ibanez got her humble starts by a company going by the name of " Hoshino" ,in the early 40's producing a spanish styled acoustic guitar that was named Ibanez. By the 1970's Ibanez ( which Hoshino had purchased the rights to)was known (good or bad) as the lawsuit guitars, for their blatant copies of more ...<< MORE >>
The October Edition of Greg's Guitars Vintage Guitar News and Views.vintage guitars
The October edition of Vintage Guitar News and Views.
